Directions: Take Interstate 94 to the town of Medora, North Dakota. Follow the signs for Theodore Roosevelt National Park Scenic Loop Drive. When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it. Either choice will deliver you to your destination, as Boicourt Overlook is about halfway around the loop that begins at the fork. The overlook is a short walk from the roadside parking area. 

Perhaps you have already visited Boicourt Overlook. If you have not, then two possible outcomes remain: either you will visit Boicourt Overlook or you will not. I hope that you do. Google reviewers give it five stars. One reviewer writes: “Just beautiful as far as the eye can see.” I would have to agree. Another reviewer posted this picture:

What brought Theodore Roosevelt to the Badlands of North Dakota during a pivotal moment in his life? Chance? Luck? Fate? Free will? The Greyhound bus?

Some might argue that Teddy was destined to go. In the philosophical view called “determinism” all events are determined previously by existing causes. The entire universe exists as it does due to the initial conditions at the time of its creation. In this view we are merely observers as we hike along a trail called “time”.

I don’t necessarily subscribe to this view, but it can be useful. Running late? Don’t worry about catching that train! Either you will catch the train or you won’t. It is a done deal. The universe knows.

Did the universe want me to be back under my parents’ roof, eating all their food, nine months after graduating from college? Was I surprised when Head Park Naturalist Jock Whitworth called from Theodore Roosevelt National Park and asked “Did you know there is a hill out here with your name on it?” You bet I was! My parents were equally surprised – and thrilled! “You should go!”, they cheered. “You can have the car!”

The car was solid: a 1971 Dodge Dart. It delivered me to my destination early in the summer of 1986. But, of course, it always was going to deliver me. It was written in the stars.

My duties at Theodore Roosevelt National Park included raising the flag in the morning, tracking Elk, helping with wild horse roundups and Bison inoculation, giving guided tours of Teddy Roosevelt’s cabin, leading trail rides, giving campfire talks, leading hikes, selling postcards and answering questions for visitors in the visitor center. My favorite question was “Where are the faces?”, in reference to Mount Rushmore which was one state away in South Dakota.

Head Park Naturalist Jock Whitworth accepted me and mentored me. He provided me with all the experiences and tools I needed to continue on in this world with confidence. He practiced catch and release. He reeled me in, looked down and saw me gasping for air, shared some encouraging words and then released me back into the wild.

I left Theodore Roosevelt National Park confident that I could be a teacher. I believed that being a good teacher would be just like giving a good campfire talk. That model held up pretty well.

I was one of the last seasonal employees to leave that year. Summer had turned to fall. It was very quiet. I had nothing to do but look at the prairie, look at the badlands and eat lunch with the lone maintenance man. We both ate peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, but he liked to put a slice of bologna in his. You betcha. Okay, then. Upon completing my tenure at Theodore Roosevelt National Park I bid farewell to the good people of North Dakota. To this day it is still the kindest community I have ever spent time in. The Local Boicourts even came out to have a look at the California Boicourt. I could tell that they were not particularly impressed. Homesteaders, ya see. 

After trading in the Dodge for some decent backpacking gear, my trail took me to Williston where I hopped a train for Glacier National Park. I spent a week hiking and backpacking alone in the Glacier backcountry. During this time I thought exclusively of grizzly bears.

Next my trail led me to Seattle, where I was reunited with the love of my life, Karen. Karen has been a constant and reoccurring “trail highlight”. My courtship of Karen began and ended with car crashes (another story for another time.) It was here, after crashing Karen’s rental car, that I proposed. We celebrated with a backpacking trip into the Hoh Rainforest on the Olympic Peninsula where one night we were surrounded by frisky Roosevelt Elk – rutting about.

Karen would return to her parents’ home while I continued my train journey.

My next stop was in Arcata, California. Here I met my friend Mike and told him the good news. I also informed him of my plans to have him stand in as Best Man. While Mike attended graduate classes at Humboldt State I surfed his couch and enjoyed the 1986 World Series. The Mets won. Mike and I also took a short backpacking trip to the Trinity Alps.

I made one more stop to visit my parents. I wanted to see them, but also I was hungry and broke. They were gone, but it was early November and there was still Halloween candy in the house. I lived off Reese’s peanut butter cups until they finally showed up. I gave them the good news. Then my trail led me on a lifetime of work and family with Karen.

I am still hiking the Boicourt Trail to Boicourt Overlook. I can see a few feet behind me. I can remember where I have been, but I can’t back track. I can see ahead, down the trail but not very far. I can not jump ahead on the trail without covering all the ground in between. 

There will undoubtedly be some rocky climbs as well as dangerous creek crossings (“Tripod!”).

We all just have to wait and see what unfolds down the trail. I hope that our trails cross again. I hope you encounter some trail highlights as well, as I am sure you will.

I don’t pretend to understand the universe. I don’t have the answers to life’s mysteries. We can boast about being sentient beings, but I don’t think we fully understand the trail we are on. I’m okay with that. I enjoy a mysterious trail. This trail of existence we all hike may at times seem whimsical, but it has been, is and always will be a wonder. Finally, I must add that it has been a real treat to share the trail with my special little Trail Highlight.

(Originally published on May 3, 2021)