Trail Report: Miles and Smiles (May 29, 2021)

What is the longest word in the dictionary? I want you to think about that while I tell a story.

Chilnualna Falls Trailhead

Above we have what appears to be an easy two or three day backcountry hike of 15 miles and 4,000 feet of climbing. The highlight of the Chilnualna Falls Loop is, of course, Chilnualna Falls. Chilnualna is pronounced “CHILL-NEW-ALL-NAH”, which was my cadence chant as I climbed to the top of the falls: One-Two-Three-Four; Chill-New-All-Nah. Repeat.

Chilnualna Falls is a series of waterfalls totaling 690 feet, located on Chilnualna Creek in the southern section of Yosemite National Park. The hike to the top of Chilnualna Falls was lovely and the trail was clear.

Warning! Do not go beyond the top of the last fall! To venture beyond the top of the falls is akin to Charles Marlow’s decent into madness as portrayed in the book “Heart of Darkness” by Joseph Conrad. (I love referencing that book. It makes me fell so sassy.)

The Mono High Wind Event of January 19, 2021, which produced winds of 110 miles per hour, had changed everything.

My hiking partner on this adventure was J.M. J.M. and I turned left at the top of the falls to encounter a forest that had been severely damaged by the wind storm. Large Ponderosa Pines and Sugar Pines, hundreds of feet long were scattered about the landscape like pick up sticks.

According to Wikipedia, pick up sticks is “a game of physical and mental skill”. Yes, indeed. I would have to agree with that. Ha ha! Pick up sticks! A game also known as “pick-a-stick”. He he! Ha ha!

Below is a picture of the “trail” we were on:

So many sticks! Such big sticks!

Sometimes you would hike around the stick. Sometimes you would hike over the stick. Sometimes you would hike under the stick. Sometimes you would hike atop of the stick.

A “Logwalker” practices his craft.

Under these conditions, two fit and experienced hikers would be considered fortunate to complete a mile in two hours. We were not fortunate hikers. Rather than go completely mad, we had fun. Once again I was blessed with a hiking partner that understood the power of positive thinking. We made up songs. We faced each fallen tree as a challenge or puzzle in a giant game of “pick-a-stick”. It was indeed and most certainly a “game of physical and mental skill”.
Pick a stick – any stick.

We only saw one other hiker. A young lady passed us going in the opposite direction. She was playing her own game of sticks. She had the proper attitude and shared with us what she had learned playing the game. (I did also hear a hiker as we neared the end of the upper loop, where the wind damage was so severe. He was starting out on the trail where we had turned left the day before. I did not see him, but I heard his booming voice echo through the woods. “GOD DAMN TRAIL!”, he yelled. He yelled some other words too. They are not fit to print here. He would not win the game. He would lose. He would be defeated by his own self. Well, that and all the sticks.)

At one point we completely lost the trail. During this time we had also been tracking the wily Sooty Grouse. The male Sooty Grouse produces an interesting song to advertise his territory. It sounds like someone playing flute on an empty Coke bottle. It is maddening! Sometimes you think you are imagining the call. The Sooty Grouse can project the call like a ventriloquist. Where are you Sooty Grouse?!?! Show yourself!!!!

Me: “I think we are getting closer.”

J.M.: “To finding the trail?”

Me: “No! To the Sooty Grouse!”

Our greatest achievement, however, was a screenplay for our upcoming blockbuster: “DOWNFALL: IN SEARCH OF THE LOGWALKERS.”

A rare glimpse of a “Logwalker”.

Our rewards for completing the Chilnualna Falls Loop were many. There was a sense of accomplishment, beer, ice cream, a campground in Yosemite Valley and a campfire. The campfire was expertly crafted by J.M. without using a single match!

There would also be one more hike! Ha ha!

We awoke early after an evening around J.M.’s miracle, match-free fire and started hiking the Upper Yosemite Falls trail around 7:00 am. It was a perfect morning. The falls were spectacular.

We shared the view from the top with one other hiker.

As we descended back to the valley, we encountered many hikers on their way up. Make no mistake, the hike to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls is very challenging. Many people demonstrated the same positive attitude needed for this hike as is needed for success in the challenging game of pick-a-stick. Others needed some encouragement. J.M. did a spectacular job of providing that encouragement. I could hear his voice down below me on the trail offering kind words and praise. At one point we came upon a small, friendly family. The daughter must have been around 10. Her face was red. She looked tired and a little grumpy. J.M. and I were standing around with the family and chatting when J.M. asked: “What is the longest word in the dictionary?” As I waited my turn to answer (“antidisestablishmentarianism”) the mom provided “supercalifragilisticexpialidocious”. Both of us were wrong. The answer, as J.M. informed us was “smiles”. Why “smiles”? Because there is a mile between the first letter and the last letter!

Following this, there were smiles all around. The Mom actually clapped! And the girl. I can not do justice to her amazing smile with a description here. I can only say that it was a smile that expressed many different emotions. I saw joy, gratitude, happiness, intelligence and mirth. She still had a long way to go on her hike, but we all knew that she was going to be just fine.

Upon completing our “reward hike” J.M. and I took a swim in the Merced River and headed home.

Miles and smiles, baby! Miles and smiles!

Thanks for reading.

Until we meet again!

Merced River, Yosemite National Park” is a painting by Sharon Freeman

(Originally published on May 29, 2021)

5 thoughts on “Trail Report: Miles and Smiles (May 29, 2021)

  1. Looking forward to the next inspiring trail report! Each one more interesting and fun to read than the last.

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