Greetings readers! Welcome to the final Trail Report!

With the completion of the above hike, I have now set foot on each and every section of the John Muir Trail (JMT). What took The Niece less than three weeks and 235 miles took me (her uncle) three summers and 400 miles.

I would not have had it any other way! I discovered many new trailheads and hiked miles of trails that are peripheral to the JMT. (These peripheral trails are less traveled and much quieter.) I dreamed and schemed in between each summer of hiking. I also started writing these “Trail Reports”. I owe all of this to The Niece who first invited me to hike with her on the JMT back in the summer of 2020.

For the hike that would wrap up my completion of all the JMT sections, The Niece, The Neighbor and I entered the John Muir Wilderness from the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada mountains at a trailhead called South Lake, just west of Bishop, California. After passing through the northeastern part of Kings Canyon National Park we would exit yet again through the John Muir Wilderness at the North Lake trailhead. The two trailheads are just a few miles apart, making this hike an “almost loop” hike.

As you can see from the profile, this trip would be a three pass hike: Bishop Pass, Muir Pass and Piute Pass.

On this trip we were once again visited by the artful, crafty and cunning Sooty Grouse. One perched in a tree and revealed herself to us. We watched as she inflated and deflated, making the peculiar whooping noise that seems to project like a ventriloquist. We also saw a White-tailed Ptarmigan and a coyote. The coyote barked at The Neighbor, who barked back! We heard many birdsongs and witnessed the early emergence of brave wild flowers.

After a short hike into Long Lake where we spent our first night, we began our ascent of Bishop Pass.

The descent from Bishop Pass into Le Conte Canyon was a long one – 4,000 vertical feet. Our packs were heavy with seven days of food, but our souls were light. Our feet ached, but our hearts sang.

After a night camping at The Neighbor’s favorite campsite near the Le Conte Ranger Cabin, we headed north on the John Muir Trail to discover the one remaining section that I had not yet seen. Morale was high – the team, excited. Ahead of us was the imposing Muir Pass, laden with snow. Would the snow be hard enough to hike on, or would we suffer the fate of the “post-holer” – the hiker who sinks into the snow up to their hip with every single step – taking four hours to complete a single mile?

That night we camped high on the mountain, just below the snowy pass. The moon rose over our campsite, casting a surreal glow off the ice, snow, water and granite.

That morning we embarked to climb the pass. A two mile climb on snow awaited us, followed by another two miles of descent on snow as we continued to move north. Although the snow was a little soft, we made good time.

For most of the day we were distracted with an endless display of rock, ice, snow, water and sky. Just when I had thought that there could not be a more beautiful combination of these elements, Mother Nature would reveal a new creation as I rounded the next bend in the trail. 

We finally made it up and over the pass and descended below the snow line, then the tree line. We camped that night by a loud stream. Every night was spent falling to sleep while listening to cascading water. Some nights were loud. Others were quieter.

 

The next morning (Day Five) would be an easy day – a long cruise through Evolution Valley and then McClure Meadow. Upon arriving at the McClure Meadow Ranger Cabin, the final puzzle piece was in place and my goal completed! Woohoo! (The rest of the hike was either overlap or new territory off the main JMT.)

The gang and I spent some time admiring the cabin, and wondering out loud what the job of a Backcountry Park Ranger would entail.

As we continued our hike, who should we encounter but National Park Service Ranger Helen on her way to spend four months alone at the McClure Meadow Ranger Cabin. She was generous with her time and answered all of our many questions. Our first question: “How does one land such a sweet gig as Backcountry Ranger?” Helen replied that the NPS would hire anyone and that all you had to do was fill out an application form. It soon became apparent however, that Helen – if anything – was overqualified. Had there been a flier for her job, it would read something like this:

Wanted: Backcountry Park Ranger

Degrees Required: At least three, but preferably four. If you are working on the fourth degree and it is a nursing degree – then yes, that would be fine.

Emergency Training: EMT certified

Hiking Experience: The candidate must have completed hiking the 2,650 mile long Pacific Crest Trail

Musical Background: The candidate must provide their own ukulele. (The NPS can not ensure the safety of said ukulele, so the candidate must be prepared to pack it in.)

Room and Board: The cabin is free and includes mice. You must purchase your own groceries.

Pay: One would be better off as a dishwasher at the Black Bear Diner.

401(k): Nope!

After a night camped by the South Fork of the San Joaquin River (very loud), we began our approach to the final pass of the trip: Piute Pass. The hike up Piute Canyon would involve numerous creek crossings. We kept dry socks near the top of our packs. As we neared the tree line once more, a rather violent wind developed. (The Niece had been keeping a keen eye on the clouds and wind all day.) Rather than continue on towards the pass, we decided to hunker down in some trees by a lovely creek. Weather reports indicated that the winds did not forbode a storm, so we planned on moving through the pass in the morning. 

That morning dawned clear and cold – our first freeze! It was the last day on the trail, and Piute Pass did not disappoint. We hiked slowly, often with some distance between us – lost in our thoughts. Then we would come back together and talk – or not. This group is just as comfortable sharing silence as they are in sharing discussion.

We ate lunch on the windy pass and then descended down to the car.

We refreshed ourselves at the same porch side general store that we had visited on a previous trip. We said our goodbyes. The Niece had to get home. The Neighbor and I headed south down Highway 395 to car camp at Whitney Portal – the unofficial terminus of the John Muir Trail. After dinner I walked up to “The Portal” itself and took this picture. 

If you are passing through The Portal on your way to the wilderness, then adventure, self discovery and camaraderie await. Your spirit will be cleansed and bonds to friends and family will be strengthened. If you are passing through The Portal on your way to your car, then an endless news stream and dangerous traffic awaits you – but hopefully you will be better prepared mentally to deal with civilization’s harsh realities. It is no small comfort to know that these wild places exist and can be visited when needed.

So ends “Trail Reports”. A perfect ending to the John Muir Trail: a hike over Muir Pass. This section of the trail is widely considered to be the most stunning. I would have to agree. After a short hiatus, I hope to return with something shorter and maybe sweeter – perhaps “Hiking Haikus”?

“Creek Crossing”

Soggy socks. Squishy squash.

Stinking in my boots. 

Thank you, reader, for joining me. I think of you all often when on the trail. Take good care of yourself, your loved ones and this good land that sustains us.  

Acknowledgements

To JMW: Thank you for teaching me fortitude and optimism in the face of daunting challenges. To Dr. Gino: Thank you for demonstrating generosity and “Esprit de Corps”. To Mr. Z, That Smart Kid, Mr. T and all the others: Thank you for the opportunity to serve as your public educator. To DBB: Thank you for following me to this point on the JMT and taking this beautiful picture.

To KRB: Thank you for joining me on an early foray onto the JMT where we met our first through hikers and were regaled with tales of high adventure and hilarity around a blazing campfire. To My Neighbor’s Wife and Child: Thank you for the company of your kind, generous, wise, thoughtful, patient and adventurous Husband/Dad. To The Niece: Thank you for your inspiration, guidance and companionship. To My Readers: Thank you for holding me accountable to an acceptable standard of storytelling. To Mom and Dad: Thank you for instilling in me a lust for adventure and literacy. To Honey, Poppy, Blanco and Carrot: Thank you for being there when I return home. To my neighbor Ricardo: Thank you for blazing the trail. To my wife: Thank you for everything. I love you.

Signing off,

Dave (Trail Name: “Quakie”)

(Originally published June 17, 2022)

You can find all of my Trail Reports here: https://daveboicourt.com